Joe Peacock

20 year-old Joe Peacock, from Tonbridge, Kent, UK, went to Peru in November 2011 and spent just under 8 weeks living in the shack caring for the dogs whilst Cristina returned to Australia to spend Christmas and New Year with her family.  Here on this page you can read a day-by-day account of Joe's experience.

Joe's trip was only made possible due to the kind donations received from family, friends, and dog lovers from all over the world, following his plea for help with the cost of his flights.  A full list of all the donations can be found at the foot of this page.

If you, or anyone you know, would like the opportunity to volunteer in Peru helping Cristina and/or caring for the dogs when she next visits her family in Dec 2012, then please email contact@perustreetdogs.co.uk or call + 44 (0) 7801 505526 and speak with Maxine. 
 

Joe's story starts here with a message from Cristina:

"I am so happy that Joe Peacock has offered to come out to Peru to look after my dogs while I go visit my family for Christmas. I admire Joe for what he is doing, and can relax knowing that, from Joe's experience with dogs, that my 8 rescued dogs will be well cared for.  Not only will Joe take care of the dogs, he will also be doing so in a country so different from England that it might as well be Mars. The climate is difficult to say the least: Temperatures are in the high 90's for all but 2 months of the year. No-one speaks English, so Joe is doing a crash course in Spanish. Life is basic: while I have a water tap at my house (the tap happens to be in the middle of the garden) I have no toilet. Mosquitos are a problem but luckily there are coils and plug-in devices to control them at night. Water and power cuts are a way of life here; but Joe knew all this when he volunteered, and so now he's embarking on the adventure of a lifetime. I hope everyone will get behind Joe and help him as he will be helping me."  Cristina Corales

 

WEDNESDAY 9th NOVEMBER

Joe says: "Only 18 days left until I leave to the 'unknown'! It's all sinking in now, I've got some big ass butterflies starting to flap about in my stomach, but I am very much looking forward to it!"

When asked what he considered to be the most difficult aspect of his mission Joe said: "Not too long ago it was the language! But I have figured I've always got my book. Mentally it's rather hard as I'm going to live as one of them in a third world country. It's a hard job looking after that many dogs in England on your own so this is going to be throwing me in the deep end, but that's also what I am excited about and I know I can do it. Hopefully I can get involved with their work life and can really experience the full package! By the end of it all I hope not to freak when I see a tarantula lol !"
 

TUESDAY 22nd NOVEMBER:  Get ready for updates from Joe

WATCH THIS SPACE....

As the person responsible for creating and updating this website I think it’s only right for me to introduce myself - I’m Joe’s aunt, Maxine Heasman; I visited Peru in April 2010 and saw for myself the misery and suffering of the neglected street dogs. I wanted to see something being done to help them – then I discovered Cristina and her wonderful work in Peru. What a sense of relief and comfort that someone had actually put the wheels in motion to make a difference to the lives of these suffering animals!

Earlier this year Joe had asked me for some advice and guidance regarding doing voluntary work overseas with animals; so when Cristina put out a plea for a volunteer willing to look after her rescued dogs it made perfect sense to discuss it with Joe… and the rest is history in the making! 

Over the coming days and weeks I’ll be posting updates and photos here on a daily basis. Check back here tomorrow for a personal message from Joe.  In the meantime fingers crossed that the foggy weather improves – flights in and out of Heathrow have been subject to delays over the past few days. Joe’s flight departs this Sunday evening.  [Tuesday 22.11.2011]
 

WEDNESDAY 23rd NOVEMBER:  Joe answers your questions:

With just a few days left until he departs Joe is busy getting prepared. “I would like to say a big, big thank you to everyone who has donated. I hardly know any of these people and they don’t know me either, so it’s been a bit of shock really to receive so many donations and to see just how quickly it has all come together. I have been very surprised to see what people will give towards helping animals even though they don’t know me. My family have been helping a lot and it’s just been amazing really getting so much support."

How have people learned about your mission? “This website has been a brilliant way to inform people and get donations, and my grandparents have been doing a fantastic job raising funds from customers at their dog boarding kennels. My mum too has been raising funds and awareness by handing out leaflets and generally spreading the word in the local community, particularly when out dog walking. I really didn’t expect to raise as much as we’ve got – it’s fantastic!”

How are you planning to stay in touch while you are out there? “I’m going to be quite isolated when I’m in Peru and I’ll be almost totally reliant on the internet as a way of communicating with my friends and family, so I am really grateful to my grandparents who have given me a brand new Acer Netbook laptop to take with me - such a great gift, which will be my communication centre and lifeline throughout my time in Peru! Keeping in regular contact with my family will be a top priority as I know both my mum and my grandmother will be worried about me.”

How do you feel about being away from home at Christmas time? “To be honest I’m not that bothered… you get Christmas once every year but something like this trip to Peru only comes along once in a lifetime. The only thing I’m going to miss is my Christmas dinner!!

How are you going to cope doing all the cleaning? “Cristina has been sending me lots of information about the dogs and all the daily and weekly chores that I will need to do. It seems I’ll be spending quite a bit of time clearing up dog mess and sweeping bugs off the walls, particularly at night. Oh and spiders… I’m absolutely petrified of them but I’m just going to have to get used to them and treat them as my friends! I’m hoping that this experience will help me overcome my fear of spiders!"

How do you plan to spend your days in Puerto Maldonado? “I won’t be expected to spend all my time in the shack so I’m hoping to spend my days getting involved in the Peruvian way of life. It is going to be so different to what I am used to. I am particularly interested in learning how to make boats – I’d love to get involved in that and hopefully I’ll get the chance to if I make some good friends, which I’m sure I will.”

Over the past few weeks you’ve been trying to learn Spanish, how’s it going? “I have to admit that I’m not very good at learning Spanish but I’m determined to stick at it. I will be taking my Spanish books and CDs with me to Peru so I can continue to learn and practice. When I’m there I won’t find many locals who can speak English so that should give me even more incentive to learn as much of their language as I can.”

Do you think you’re going to miss your friends and life back in Kent? “There are definitely a couple of good mates that I’m going to miss – I see them casually at least a couple of times a week and have done for the past 10 years or more so it will be strange, but I’ll be alright and my time in Peru will go pretty quickly I’m sure!”

What are you looking forward to the most? “I’m looking forward to seeing the scenery all around me. It’s going to be amazing. The lifestyle and the animals – here you can only see the animals in glass tanks and/or cages but in Peru they’ll be living like they’re supposed to and I’m really looking forward to that. I’m also aware that I’ll be seeing how people with not much money live and I’m sure that will be quite an eye-opener.”

What would you like to take away from the experience? “I think I’ll probably find the answer to that question when I’m out there!”

If you could take one person with you who would it be, and why? “Jessica-Jane Clement because she’s gorgeous!! No, seriously it would be my little dog Chia, I’d like to bring her with me because I love her to bits, and yeah I’m going to miss her a lot. I’ll miss her loads because she’s my companion. She’s a Pomeranian cross – although even the vet can’t say what she’s crossed with so she’s just one of a kind. We got her the day after my motorbike crash when she was about 12 weeks old, and she’s always been there so she’s my friend.”

How are you progressing with your preparations for the trip… are you ready yet? “My injections are all done and my malaria and cholera medication has been covered, but I haven’t packed yet. I have most of the stuff I need but there are just a few bits more that I need to get. Then I need to go back over it to make sure I’ve got everything. I’m sure I’m going to miss something! Things are all going well and I’ve had lots of people helping and advising with things I’d never have thought of – yes I would have missed a lot if I hadn’t had this input… things like taking talcum powder to dry my feet out because they’re going to get horrible and I could get foot rot; and putting my socks over my boots at night to stop insects, spiders or scorpions crawling in them!! Stuff like that I would never have thought about so it’s been great having help from people.”

 

THURSDAY 24th NOVEMBER

Joe isn't the only one busy with final preparations... Cristina has been getting the jungle shack spruced up with a lick of paint, getting the leaking roof mended and obtaining a bed for Joe.  As soon as I figure out how to upload them onto this page you'll be able to see some photographs.  In the meantime I'd like to share with you some of Cristina's instructions to Joe:

"I'm not going to write 'This is what you have to do'. Instead I'll tell you my typical day and you can have an idea of what you'll be doing.

At 6am everyone seems to get up here, all the neighbours start making noise as the kids start school day at 7am. I get up at 6am, make coffee and get on the net until around 7.15am when the dogs tell me they are hungry.  After they've been fed I have breakfast.  Then I start cleaning: there is a LOT of cleaning to be done. First I clean up any accidents from the night.  Two dogs aren't completely toilet trained yet and wee in the night.

Wash dog plates, my dishes, then shake out dog bedding and sweep the floors and walls. The reason for sweeping the walls is that insects cover the walls and will take over the shack if not discouraged at every opportunity.  Then I wash my clothes and any dog blankets that need it.  By now it's about 9am and I need another coffee!

The land and the new house need to be de-pooed: I put on rubber gloves and hiff it all in the direction of the river. Am practicing to join the NZ cricket team. 
After that I shower and go out to work. You'll be free to do whatever.

There is always other work to do, such as taking everything off the food shelves and wiping them down. They get covered in insects if I don't.  Once a week the floors get a scrub with disinfectant and the broom. I do this on dry days.  If the grass gets really long it needs to be cut back in areas like around the clothes line and walkways because of snakes  Once a week the 3 little dogs have a bath. The big dogs won't let me bath them.  On Sunday afternoons I put the rubbish out in the street.
 
Shops open around 9-10am but are shut between 1pm and 3-4pm for lunch. That's when I have a siesta.  Then they open again until 8-9pm. Everything is very flexible. Like, if there is a lot of rain some shops don't bother opening at all.  The market is open early morning until late at night.

In the late afternoon I sweep the house out again, shake out beds again if they need it, and go back to work or visit friends. And shower.  Dogs get their dinner 6pm or around then. Afterwards I wash their plates and make my dinner.  And put a padlock on the gate.

Late night is the best time for the internet, in fact it's about the only time that downloading is possible."  [Cristina Corales - 1st November 2011]

 

FRIDAY 25th NOVEMBER

Yesterday I promised you photographs....

 
Photo 1 - Pancho [© Cristina Corales]

"This is Pancho. He risked his life crawling from the building site to my roof to spread plastic sheeting to keep out the rain. It took him an hour, and as well as his ladder being too short, the roof beams rotten, he also had to contend with a wasps' nest. When I paid him the equivalent of $17au. he said it was far too much and he came back with a machete and cut a new path through the jungle for me. Then took my gas tank and had it filled. What a sweet man."


 
Photo 2 - Joe's Bed [© Cristina Corales]

"The new old bed was dumped at the start of my track. This is my good friend Paulina lugging the mattress across a ditch and up the rise while checking on Robbie who was about to be attacked by a gang of street dogs. The ditch has been opened and filled in 3 times in the last week, it seems no-one can make up their mind what to do with it."


MEANWHILE... back in Kent, Joe spends the day helping his step-father decorate his new workshop:


Photo 3 - Edenbridge workshop [© Joe Peacock] 

SATURDAY 26th NOVEMBER

By the time he arrives in Puerto Maldonado, Joe will have been travelling for around 24 hours.  Cristina will meet him at the airport when he arrives on Monday afternoon local time (the time difference being -5 hours).  There is no separate bedroom in Cristina's shack so for his first night only Joe will be staying here http://www.tambopatahostel.com/ - this means he'll be able to get some decent sleep without being disturbed.  Please take a look at the hostel website as it contains some great photos of the fauna and flora that Joe will get to see.

Cristina has written today:  "I'm looking forward to meeting Joe, but I'm glad that he'll have the first night to recover at the hostel because I imagine everything will be rather overwhelming at first.  Then when he comes to the shack, that will be a further culture shock! Having to share a room with dogs on the floor and me in my hammock, no toilet, neighbours who play loud music at 5am, the jungle, the heat, the mosquitos.

The two things that I'm most interested in is what accent Joe has! I have a New Zealand accent with Australian overtones, so Joe's pronouncation of Spanish will be very different from mine I imagine.

The second thing is what my dogs will make of him. Thank goodness he's used to dogs as when I open the gate they all rush at who ever is there and bark like crazy. Peruvians have a very different way of treating dogs than we do. Their first instinct is to throw stones or arm themselves with a stick against the dogs and I constantly have to explain that if they are aggressive towards dogs the dogs will be aggressive back at them.  So having Joe here to care for the dogs like I do is so important and I can go home for a break knowing they'll be looked after properly."

 

SUNDAY 27th NOVEMBER

Joe makes it to Heathrow in plenty of time for his flight...


Photo 4 - London Heathrow Departures - Terminal 3 [© Maxine Heasman]

 

MONDAY 28th NOVEMBER

At 20:12 hours GMT Cristina confirmed that Joe had safely arrived in Peru and is checked in at the hostel.  I'm looking forward to getting the first update from Joe... in the meantime, here are some of Cristina's photos....


Photo 5 - Shower [© Cristina Corales]

"Today [22 October]  I re-lined the shower. I won't show what it was like before as I don't want to be responsible for people throwing up. Just believe me, it was gross. Now it is a 5 star shower and I'm pretty proud, in spite of having a touch of sun stroke."



Photo 6 - Dunny [© Cristina Corales]

"A neighbour's toilet. Or in Aussie speak, a dunny."



Photo 7 - Cristina's shack [© Cristina Corales]

"Our house in Puerto Maldonado."
 

TUESDAY 29th NOVEMBER

Here's Joe arriving at Puerto Maldonado Airport yesterday.


Photo 8 - Joe arriving [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 9 - Joe's plane having landed at Puerto Maldonado [© Cristina Corales]

Joe's first message, sent within a couple of hours of arriving:  "I'm all taken aback at the minute, it's so different even the keyboard on this computer is proving challenging... I had to get someone to type the @ for me as you have to hold alt then type 4 and 6, ha ha.  I'm going to go and relax now as I'm all over the place in my head!!  I will speak to you properly tomorrow followed with pictures... my god was it beautiful looking out the window of the plane when I flew in."

Whilst waiting for Joe to arrive yesterday, Cristina went looking for a dog that had been seen on the streets and which was covered in tumors. 


Photo 10 - Preciosa [© Cristina Corales]
"This is Precious. Her owner adored her but had no money to take her for treatment for her tumors. The expression on Precious's face says what words can't."

Sadly Precious was so old and so riddled with tumors that she was euthanised.  If you haven't already done so, please consider making a donation here - any funds received will go directly to helping suffering street dogs in Peru.

Last night part of the market burnt down due to an electrical fault, causing an electrical blackout in the whole of Puerto Maldonado! Fortunately this happened before Joe arrived! 

 

WEDNESDAY 30th NOVEMBER

Cristina's friend Paulina is a teacher at a local school, and yesterday Joe went along and became everyone's best friend by handing out lollipops to the class...


Photo 11 [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 12 [© Cristina Corales]
 

Photo 13 [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 14 - School exterior [© Cristina Corales]


Last night Joe emailed his first photos....


Photo 15 - View from plane window [© Joe Peacock]



Photo 16 - Jungle foilage in the hostel garden [© Joe Peacock]



Photo 17 - Inside the shack... this is Joe's side of the room [© Joe Peacock]



Photo 18 - And here is Cristina's side of the room! [© Joe Peacock]


19:25 hours GMT - I have just spoken with Joe - this morning he witnessed a dog undergoing surgery: 


Photo 19 - Joe at the vet with Lassie [© Cristina Corales]

Lassie was sterilised a month ago but one of the stitches had been left in and had become infected.

Joe is shocked at the level of poverty all around him. Everyone is being really friendly and welcoming, and on his first night [at the hostel] he was able to relax in the company of some Americans!

He is feeling frustrated with himself for not learning sufficient Spanish prior to travelling; he really wants to be able to converse with the local people but has a long way to go before he can do that.  [Personally I think that's going to be great motivation, and when Cristina leaves for Australia on Friday he'll have even more motivation to improve!!]  Joe is finding the intense heat quite a challenge too!! 

He sounded very excited and was telling me about all the sounds of the jungle that can be heard through the night, particularly the frogs.  The shack is right next to the river and this morning at 5 a.m. Joe said it was amazing.  He's taken so many photos already!  Last night little Pia got onto the bed and slept with him.


Photo 20 - This is Pia as she looks now [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 21 - And this is how Pia looked when Cristina first found her
[© Cristina Corales]
 

FRIDAY 2nd DECEMBER

Apologies for the lack of update yesterday... for various reasons neither Joe or Cristina could message me with their news!  

Cristina has written today as follows:  "Yesterday was frantic; we had 4 dogs to take to the vets, then dog food to buy, find 2 of my dogs who went walk-about, friends visited and then out to dinner last night. On the way home trying to find out about a very sick dog, then a HUGE storm and no power. All in 30 degrees heat!"

Today Cristina travels back to Australia leaving Joe 'holding the fort' for the next few weeks!  Having spent the past few days together, Cristina states:  "Joe has this tremendous enthusiasm for life, I love that about him. He so tries to speak Spanish, studying all the time, trying to read the newspaper and signs on the street. And interested in everything.  I think he'll cope very well. And the dogs like him, he talks to them and touches them so of course they are enjoying that."



Photo 22 - Joe with Sweetie (aka Dolce) and Pia   [© Cristina Corales]



Photo 23 - Joe beside the Tambopata River [© Cristina Corales]



Photo 24 - Joe and Lassie re-visit the vet [© Cristina Corales]



Photo 25 - Joe with Paulina's son Willie [© Cristina Corales]



Photo 26 - Joe in bed!!  [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 27 - Tambopata River [© Joe Peacock}


Photo 28 - Jungle flora [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 29 - Joe's garden and outside shower [© Joe Peacock]

 
 

SATURDAY 3rd DECEMBER

Awaiting news...

 

SUNDAY 4th DECEMBER

Not the best of days for Joe... with the heat getting to him and an increasing sense of isolation due to the language barrier!

"Its very lonely now Cristina has gone.  I spoke to the English lady next door for the first time today - she is the only person I am able to have a conversation with as literally NOBODY speaks English and she's a rather quiet person to say the least!  I now feel like an alien here and cannot ask simple things such as "can i have a lighter please?", and now I have nobody to help me with the pronunciation.  Leroy, a Peruvian man from the hostel is starting to visit me almost daily - he speaks about 15 words of English so its becoming very funny when he comes round as I want to learn Spanish he wants to learn English so there is a lot of sign language and pointing happening!!  Ha ha!" 


Photo 30 - Mango tree [© Joe Peacock]
"This woman was knocking mangos out of the tree and people below were collecting them.  As I watched I was kindly handed a mango from another woman."

Speaking about his experiences at the vet with Lassie, Joe states:  "Poor Lassie... she had an infection from a previous surgery due to a piece of stitching being left in.  The vet without hesitation stuck a pair of scissors straight into the dog.  It made me feel so sick.  Lassie yelped with pain and Cristina quickly confronted him and the problem was resolved .. this was one of not many qualified vets so god knows what goes on with the others." 



Photo 31 - One of the nicer houses in the area [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 32 - Roof of shack [© Joe Peacock]
"The beautiful roof from inside with a few minor leaks."


Photo 33 - Medicine tree [© Joe Peacock]
"This tree is used for some sort of medicine via the slits.  I think it is used for wounds!"

 

MONDAY 5th DECEMBER

A new day arrives and as he reflects on yesterday, a more positive Joe emerges:  "The heat plays a major factor in my day and yesterday was the hottest I had been since I was here which stressed me out.  I am missing my easy life back home but I'm happy I'm doing this.  I've woken up with a new attitude but I'm rather worried about a pack of street dogs I cannot avoid to get out to the town - they were very aggressive yesterday and one nipped my leg, not very hard but enough to bring some blood!" 

Using a water bottle, Joe is going to create a make-shift water pistol to use as a deterrent should the dogs become aggressive again.


Photo 34 - Joe at table [© Cristina Corales]

Speaking about Cristina's dogs, Joe told me: "The dogs are all great, they have their squabbles as any dog.  My favourite would be Dulce (aka Sweetie) because he has taken a liking to me and is at my feet 24/7!"


Photo 35 - This is Puppy Face [© Joe Peacock]

More photos of the dogs will follow shortly.

 

TUESDAY 6th DECEMBER

I spoke with Joe via telephone today and he seems to be coping very well.  He and Leroy have discovered the wonders of Google Translate, which not only translates entire sentences from English to Spanish but also speaks the words to enable correct pronunciation.  Leroy is particularly good at learning English which is proving very helpful to Joe.  I have no doubt their friendship will go from strength to strength.

 
Photo 36 - This is Leroy.

After writing to Leroy and asking if I could use his photos, he responded to me today as follows:  "Don't worry I'm going to help Joe, he is a great person and very brave to be here in this place, which is very hot today.  Today we will go shopping for lunch - rice with chicken and potatoes.  I hope you can translate this.  Please feel free to add my photo on Joe's website.  Greetings to the entire family of Joe."


Photo 37 - Leroy

Meanwhile, Joe has been out and about with his camera.....


Photo 38 - Who is this man? [© Joe Peacock]
"I saw this man polishing shoes; as I came over to take a photo these two men were more than happy to shake my hand and say hello.  The CD he is holding said 'world record' with an image of his face, I have no idea who he is so I maybe met a Peruvian celeb!"


Photo 39 - Police officers [© Joe Peacock]
"I actually wanted a photo of these two policemen as they were before I pulled my camera out; one was lying on the bike with his hat hanging off the handlebar and the other leaning against the wall."


Photo 40 - This is the street I live on [© Joe Peacock]

As well as coming face to face with a pack of aggressive street dogs, Joe has also had to face his ultimate fear... SPIDERS!!:  "I was having a tidy up, moved my rucksack and there was this spiders' nest!!  Sure I didn't sh*t myself and leg it!!"

Joe's most recent communication today reads as follows:  "I may be finding it very hard but I'm here to feed and give the dogs company which is the main thing."

So finally today I'd like to introduce you to another of Cristina's lovely dogs....


Photo 41 - Frida now [© Cristina Corales]

The photo above is Frida as she looks today... and the photo below is how she looked when Cristina found her.  She was being fed by road construction workers.  Young, seemingly pregnant and covered in mange, she had six ticks buried inside one ear.  It eventually became apparent that Frida was experiencing a phantom pregnancy.



Photo 42 - Frida before [© Cristina Corales]

 

WEDNESDAY 7th DECEMBER

Joe writes:  "My best day so far... not because I have done anything but I managed to have a proper conversation with the neighbour next door.  She invited me in for a cuppa and some rather nice biccies (she had the nicest house I have seen so far).  Her little boy Alistair finishes school in a couple of weeks, she said she will take me out as much as she can and the brilliant thing is she used to be a tour guide so who knows were she will take me!!  I explained to her I was very lonely and bored and she said I'm living the average life of a Peruvian and as her when she is not at work.  Apparently the town itself doesn't have much to do and many people dwell in their own company for days on end.  This makes me feel like I'm not alone as much.  I will still be exploring and taking pictures of anything new to me which is mostly everything!  Started to cut the garden today ten minutes at a time in that heat is enough slowly slowy..." 


Photo 43 [© Joe Peacock]
"Pia, Pinky, Frida and Puppy Face all amazed by a frog."


Photo 44 - Internet station [© Joe Peacock]
"My internet station... Pia jumps in my space as soon as I stand up."

If you look closely in the photo above you can see a frog on the floor in front of the pink cans of dog food.  Hard to tell from a distance, however it looks to me like a Smokey Jungle Frog.  Here's one I photographed whilst in Peru last year....


Photo 45 - Smokey Jungle Frog [© Maxine Heasman]

Once again Joe has sent through some more photos taken whilst out and about in Puerto Maldonado...


Photo 46 [© Joe Peacock]
"I think there was some sort of parade going on.  Check out the size of that bad boy haha!"



Photo 47 [© Joe Peacock]
"The police in full riot gear. I don't think I will start any trouble."



Photo 48 - Colourful leaf in the garden [© Joe Peacock]
 

THURSDAY 8th DECEMBER

Joe's English neighbour and her young son took him swimming today, and whilst out and about he met a group of English speaking people who have invited him to a BBQ on Saturday.

Later in the day illness and lethargy sapped at Joe's enthusiasm - I guess using a bucket for a toilet isn't all that much fun when you're fit and well... let alone when you've got a bad case of 'upset stomach'!!


Photo 49 [© Joe Peacock]
"The floor of my shower.  Maybe this sums up a little more how I am living."


Photo 50 [© Joe Peacock]
"As I was on the phone to my dad this rather cool looking moth landed on the inside of one of the 'windows'."

 

FRIDAY 9th DECEMBER

Heavy tropical storm in Puerto Maldonado this morning coupled with a loss of electricity makes it difficult for Joe to communicate or leave the shack.  Awaiting news... 
 

SATURDAY 10th DECEMBER

It has pretty much rained non-stop for the past couple of days in Puerto Maldonado.  Today Joe is attending a barbecue at which there will be some English speaking people.


Photo 51 [© Joe Peacock]
"Rainy day.  To the left is a HOUSE that was being built... apparently the builder took some money and left and the owner could not afford to get anyone else in."

Joe writes:  "It is wet and muddy and once again the dogs are coating the floor in mud!  I have given up trying to clean it... I will have to wait until its dry again (if that happens!).  My washing from 2 days ago is still wet, and due to some local having some sort of bonfire burning rubber and god knows what everything stinks LOL.  I get to meet a few English speaking people today -  I never thought I would be so excited!!"


Photo 52 - Pinkie chilling in the hammock [© Joe Peacock]

Cristina describes Pinkie as the baby of the bunch at only about 5 months old.  She has on-going mange but it's under control.  Pinkie had a very rough start in life and therefore gets lots of attention.   When Cristina is there Pinkie sleeps with her... in other words, she's spoilt rotten.  Her favourite thing apart from cuddles and posing for cute photos is digging holes!

The photo below shows how Cristina found Pinkie... covered in weeping sores.


Photo 53 [© Cristina Corales]
 

 SUNDAY 11th DECEMBER

Joe writes:  "I didnt get to go to the barbecue yesterday because of the weather!  Instead I spent most of the day with the neighbours - they managed to show me their new house which is under construction.  They told me when the first builder started they had a friend come to inspect and as he jumped up to have a look at the top of the wall it collapsed and crumbled into a pile of dust!  This house looks amazing compared to anywhere else; she seems very excited and is having the rarity of hot water.  The neighbours brought this weird drink they had never tried; it has been made from a type of wood in the jungle... we all agreed it smelled vulgar but infact we found ourselves licking our lips after a small glass!"

Speaking about the constant heat, Joe states:  "The great thing about being cold is you can always put more clothes on... well I can't take anymore off!!  LOL.  One of the lovely dogs decided to eat my notebook/diary while I was cleaning up some poo, ha ha oh well my memory will have to prove a point. It is amazing the fact I'm so many miles away from home in South America with the jungle a touch away but the heat, being sick/the runs, being bitten to bits and being away from what you're used to makes it very hard.  I'm not on holiday as such at the moment, and I won't get to see the real jungle until Cristina returns which I see as a well-deserved reward for looking after the dogs!"


Photo 54 [© Joe Peacock]
"Just caught sight of this rather large bird.



Photo 55 [© Joe Peacock]
"Peru's version of a council worker I guess!"
 
 

MONDAY 12th DECEMBER

There was an Englishman, an Australian and a Peruvian sitting in a bar... and this morning Joe woke with one almighty hangover!!  Yes while having a snack at the Plaza do Armas yesterday, Joe met an Australian guy, Matt, who had just arrived in Puerto Maldonado whilst travelling around the world.  Later that evening Joe, Matt and Leroy met up for a drink... "one thing led to another and we ended up in a karaoke bar singing our hearts out to Queen, Bon Jovi, David Bowie, Eminem, Jack Johnson and many more."  Later, Joe and Leroy went on to a nightclub where Joe describes "all sorts of music, which was very easy to dance to under the influence."  They eventually stumbled out of the club at gone three in the morning!

Earlier in the day Joe took these photographs....


Photo 56 [© Joe Peacock]
"This shows a man with a sack full of brazil nuts; the strap going around his head would have been made out of a strong bark from the jungle."


Photo 57 [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 58 - Clearing a trail [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 59 - Logging [© Joe Peacock]

 

TUESDAY 13th DECEMBER

Speaking about Cristina's dogs, Joe writes:  “Every night when I try to go to sleep Pia and Frida usually start play fighting then barking, flying around the shack and knocking into the walls and me. I am usually woken up about 6 times in a night by visits of sharp claws scratching down my arms or chest. If a moth or bug enters every dog starts a wild hunt to catch it first. I woke up this morning to discover that they have eaten a WHOLE box of Cristina’s and I do not know what was inside it… so I saved as much as was left and put it on a shelf. I can’t stay clean - they all jump up and due to the very muddy surroundings I just get painted in brown. I often wake up with just one flip flop and I have to find the other, and if I have a sleep in the day the search is much more intense!”

 
Photo 60 - I was taken down this road on a taxi ! (motorbike) [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 61 - View from the Obelisco [© Joe Peacock]
Lonely Planet review: “Although the strangely cosmic, blue Obelisco was designed as a modern mirador (lookout tower), its 30m height unfortunately does not rise high enough above the city for viewers to glimpse the rivers. The view is still fantastic: a distant glimmer of jungle and plenty of corrugated-metal roofs can be admired! Photos displayed on the way up document such historic moments as when the first mototaxi arrived in town. The tower is often closed during rainstorms: water from the roof drains down the stairwells, making them impassable."

 

WEDNESDAY 14th DECEMBER

Internet connection problems in the Peruvian shack prevented any news updates today.

 

THURSDAY 15th DECEMBER

Joe continues to struggle with the intense heat and ill-health associated with the previously mentioned 'upset stomach', and the continual wet weather and muddy conditions.  In Puerto Maldonado the rain gets so bad that any shops shut and stay shut until the weather improves - if you don't have sufficient provisions indoors to get you through the rain you soon learn to do so!!

Joe writes:  "I truly have forgeten what it feels like to be cold even though I have been wishing for it on many occasions in this heat;  I'm sure I'll soon start wishing for the heat when I'm back in England... it works both ways - it seems we are never satisfied!"


Photo 62 - Two vultures chilling out.  [© Joe Peacock]

Joe hopes soon to have the chance to go on a day trip into the jungle to Lake Sandoval - there is a tourist hike from the Madre de Dios river through the jungle to the lake; on the way you might see parrots and macaws, and black caiman and giant otters have been spotted at the lake.   As it is the height of the rainy season at the moment there aren't very many tourists, which means that any day trips or tours are four times their normal price.  Luckily as Leroy works at the hostel which operates these tours, Joe will get to know if/when there is a tourist group he can join.  In the meantime Joe waits patiently and has developed a thirst for books and any other reading material that comes his way!

 

FRIDAY 16th DECEMBER

It is incredibly fortunate that Joe finds himself with an English next-door neighbour...  Laurel has been tremendously reassuring and supportive to Joe, and has been acting as a translator on many occasions, and also assisted Joe when he paid a visit to Lassie dog in order to remove her stitches.  With Laurel's advice and help, Joe saw a medical professional today regarding his symptoms of ill-health and some diagnostic tests have been performed.  The results will be made available tomorrow.


Photo 63 - Pinkie with those ever so common puppy eyes!  [© Joe Peacock]

Joe writes:  "I was awoken today at 5 a.m by Frida, Pia and Milagro - playful growling and big bangs as they throw each other about the room and the beautiful sight of three puddles awaiting my attention! Frida loves to play with anything and throw it in the air for herself, be it a nut, a fly, a leaf or for the unfortunate sake of a bird.  Usually Pia or Pinkie then wants this 'amazing item' and Frida teases them very much so.  Milagro, who is almost totally blind, runs up and down from the inside of the shack walls following the noises from outside, and often he looks very stupid standing there facing the wall barking.  I will try and get a picture of this . Puppy Face is the easiest of all, he has his corner of the shack and it seems to stay like that... he will happily sleep there most of the day and casually stroll over for the odd stroke and tummy rub, which he gets on demand seeing as he's no trouble maker!  Pia and Pinkie seem to be learning how to share - they have snuggle-ups at night and I have even seen Frida join in as well, yes three dogs on one blanket!"



Photo 64 - My socks seem to do down well with the dogs!  [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 65 [© Joe Peacock]
"These are two of the dogs that really don't like me, pitbull on the left (he's the the calmest of the lot!). Two days ago there were eight of them blocking my path including the one who bit my leg in the first week!"
 

SATURDAY 17th DECEMBER

The results of Joe's diagnostic tests show that he is suffering from Giardia Lamblia, a condition more commonly known as 'beaver fever', which is caused by the ingestion of parasites via bad water.  Fortunately it is easily treated with antibiotics, and Joe is now taking extra precautions by only drinking bottled water and avoiding ice in drinks and salads.  Sound advice for anyone travelling to some of the world's more exotic or adventurous locations!


Photo 66 - [© Joe Peacock]
The photo above shows Joe cutting away the very wet and very overgrown foilage that had been swallowing up the tiny track leading to and from the shack.

Joe writes:  "Saturday started off with lots and lots of rain so I assumed Leroy's plans of coming round at lunch were off, but Leroy turned up 3 hours after he had planned with his machete in hand and wellies on.   I picked up my machete (a gift from Cristina) and dragged it across my hand to show Leroy it was blunt - he got the idea and then within ten minutes we were at a nearby house (shack) having it sharpened for the equivalent of 25p.  Off to work we went... Leroy had obviously done this more than once, and had this amazing technique which was swiftly reducing the areas of plants and grass.  He kept pointing with his fingers to his eyes then to the grass saying the word "danger snakes", so as to warn me to keep a look out and don't get bitten!"


Photo 66 - [© Joe Peacock]
Here's Leroy, Joe and Leroy's dog Tyson taking a break after clearing the path.  In the background is the Tambopata River and beyond that the Amazon jungle.


Photo 67 [© Joe Peacock]
Job done, and after seeing this photo Cristina wrote to me:  "Did you see the new track that Joe and Leroy have cut?  No more pushing through long wet grass, amazing!  That's an impressive amount of work."


Photo 68 - Leroy & Tyson [© Joe Peacock]
 

SUNDAY 18th DECEMBER



Photo 69 - Frida [© Cristina Corales]

Joe wrote:  "I noticed Frida was not herself, she looked very cramped up and in pain; she usually bolts around all day playing mainly with Pia and Pinkie. I knew something was wrong straight away and a bulge had appeared on her tummy. I first tried ringing Paulina, as it was a Sunday the vets was not open, no answer from Paulina, then Leroy… same outcome. I then tried my neighbour but she was also out!  By now I was starting to get stressed - I’m in Peru, ill myself, unable to speak to anyone else... "SHIT" what do I do?  I then heard the dog next door bark and I knew my neighbour had returned so I quickly shouted over the fence and explained.  Within two minutes Laurel had spoken to her vet, also a very close friend, and within the hour she was round on her day off to take a look at Frida.  After thirty seconds of her seeing to Frida the vet was pretty positive it was a hernia. She injected some antibiotics into her and gave me instructions to try and feed her some soup promptly, then no more food as she was to operate the next day.  Laurel was there the whole time, she was my translator. I asked if Frida would be okay and the answer was not the best news - she was worried about the hardness of the lump. Everyone left and I was alone once again with the dogs.  Even though I knew it wasn't my fault I couldn't help feeling a sense of guilt and blame for Frida's pain, and I had a very restless and anxious night."

 

MONDAY 19th DECEMBER

Monday morning arrives and Joe writes as follows  "Frida was due in at the vet at 9 a.m... the wait for 9 a.m felt like a whole day even though it had been three hours.  Now I had to figure out how to transport her when she seemed unable to walk, and how to keep the other dogs inside while doing this!   I managed to shut all of the dogs inside and get Frida out, and when she saw the gate open she was more than happy to attempt to walk.  We got a motocar (not a tuktuk apparently) and off to the vet we went.  I didn’t want to leave her."

After an anxious wait while Frida underwent surgery Joe received the best news... the operation had been a success, the hernia had been treated and Frida was going to be okay.  

Cristina states:  "Thanks to Joe Peacock and his quick action, Frida dog is recovering well from emergency surgery on a hernia."

 

TUESDAY 20th DECEMBER

Joe writes:  "On Monday I stayed in all day to care for Frida as I was told she would be very confused and wobbly when she awoke and this was very true.  The first time she woke up she just managed to flop her head about - I managed to get some water in her after many attempts at holding her head in the right place.  Once she got the first taste of it the bowl was emptied in no time and she went back off to sleep . When she actually got to her feet, which was 3 hours in total after the surgery, she was banging into everything.  She headed straight outside and I had to follow every step.. she went in the direction of a fence where a pickaxe was propped up, and as she crouched to have a pee she was about 1 inch away from having a pickaxe up her backside... so I quickly managed to knock it out of the way! 

Today the vet came back round with more antibiotics for Frida.  She is slowly getting back on her feet and trying her hardest but rest is best for her at the moment." 



Photo 70 - Frida comfortably back at home and sleeping [© Joe Peacock]

 

WEDNESDAY 21st DECEMBER

Today Joe made his first and very eagerly awaited trip into the jungle to see some of the wonderful wildlife.  Feeling comfortable with Frida's progress Joe makes off to the Plaza for an early start.  "I can't believe how Frida is; she is so happy, tail going at the rate of sonic and jumping all over her mates...she has more energy than before!

"I arrived at the Plaza just before seven and then was told we would be leaving an hour later, and it would just be me and that I was to meet a group at a lodge in the Amazon rainforest. Down to the port and off I went the only tourist on the wobbly boat, avoiding huge and small trees as we crossed to the other side of the river; then my hour journey began and I was enjoying the breeze as we ticked along, and the view of the river with the Amazon rainforest surroundings.  I got there and was directed up some wooden steps where I met Carlos my guide - a wonderful man, Peruvian and he lives in the rainforest full time!

Next thing I know a monkey runs at me and climbs up my leg and starts playing with my sunglasses; and as I sat down he got on my lap and lay stretched out and made himself very comfy.



Photo 71 - This is the monkey that got on my lap  [© Joe Peacock]

They are so human like, the way they do stuff with their hands - it was brilliant to experience this in such a close way.  This is a pet of the lodge but not in the way most people would think; there is no cage or enclosure, just the freedom to hang from trees, bushes and all around the lodge, which he seemed to enjoy!

I met two Australians there, so now a total of only three people, which I was very happy with as when they told me I would be meeting a group I assumed more than two.

Off we went with our backpacks on and plenty of mosquito repellent, on another short boat journey which took about 15 minutes. We started our trek through the trail in the jungle which took about 1 hour.  We stopped a lot on the way to admire the wildlife and scenery around and meeting tarantulas in their homes and many colourful butterflies that were too quick to get a photo.


Photo 72 - Tarantula [© Joe Peacock]

We got to a small dock and boarded a paddle canoe to travel along a narrow tributary branch of Lake Sandoval, only a width and a half of the size of the canoe we were in.  There was a very creepy silence as we moved so smoothly through the water.  I could see the opening to the lake... it was HUGE.


Photo 73 - Lake Sandoval  [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 74 - In the canoe on the narrow tributary branch [© Joe Peacock]

Over the course of the day I saw so many different animals... spider monkeys, squirrel monkeys, some sort of other monkey, giant otters (WOW! They are nearly extinct I believe).   Many different birds and much more!


Photo 75 - Hoatzin birds [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 76 -  ?? Monkey [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 77 - ?? Monkey [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 78 [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 79 - Carlos my guide (with black monkey in background) [© Joe Peacock]

It was a rare treat to be the ONLY people out on this beautiful lake and it made the whole trip so unique. We went swimming as well; at first we thought he was joking because of the amount of piranhas that it holds, but we soon followed when Carlos jumped in without hesitation.



Photo 80 - Swimming with piranhas [© Joe Peacock]

I did some piranha fishing which was pretty cool; and we all managed to catch one, and to see the teeth they have close up made it quite clear they can munch through pretty much anything!   There's so much more that made this trip amazing but it is only something that can be felt and not said in words!"


Photo 81 - Piranha [© Joe Peacock]


Photo 82 - Dropping my catch [© Joe Peacock]

 

THURSDAY 22nd DECEMBER

Whilst we await further updates from Joe, here's a photo he sent a few days ago showing the Peruvian equivalent to a spider in the bath...


Photo 83 - A frog in the shower! [© Joe Peacock]


Back on 16th December, Joe posted this update on his Facebook page:  "Seeing as you lot back in England are covering the weather via your Facebook, I thought I should let you all know its about 28 degrees here, not a cloud in sight only blue; it's 9:10am and I'm about to wander out in a vest top and shorts with my flip flops on and have an omelette for breakfast while sitting outside watching the world pass, followed by an ice cream so I can cool down." 

After reading the above comment, Sandie C wrote: "Sounds like heaven Joe - it's snowing here in Lancashire and I'm wearing two sweaters!"  To which Joe responded:  "Heaven eh?  Looked like it yesterday with the amount of stars in the sky while I was having a shower in the pitch black in the roofless shower.  They actually do twinkle here many colours!"

 

FRIDAY 23rd DECEMBER


Still awaiting updates - so following on from yesterday's frog in the shower.... 

Unlike Joe, I travelled to Peru as a tourist (in March/April 2010).  There were nine of us in the group, eight women and one man - none of us had met before and we were all travelling solo.  We'd all arrived in Peru the night before and after just a few hours sleep in a rather luxurious hotel in Lima we met for an early breakfast.  It was a bit like waking up in the Big Brother house... who on earth were these people with whom I would be spending the next 16 days??

After breakfast we took a domestic flight to Puerto Maldonado - here we left our main luggage in a secure building and continued our journey with just a rucksuck containing all the necessary items for a four-day trip into the jungle.  We initially travelled by mini-bus on a rough road; this bus then stopped, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and we then descended a rather steep bank and got onboard a motorised canoe which was waiting for us on the Tambopata river.  It was standing here whilst waiting to board the boat that I first noticed a small grey dog that was covered in red sores, which were being made worse by the dog's constant scratching.  Although I was very excited about heading off deep into the jungle, part of me felt saddened by what I had seen and the fact that there was nothing I could do.


Photo 84 - Quite a steep river bank to negotiate [© Maxine Heasman]



Photo 85 [© Maxine Heasman]

We then travelled some three or four hours from Puerto Maldonado along the Tambopata River (the journey depends on the river currents) to the Tambopata Eco Lodge which is situated in a protected area of Amazonia.  Whilst travelling on the river I saw another dog - from what I could see as we floated past each other, this one looked much healthier and seemed to be enjoying the breeze in the prime location on the front of the canoe!


Photo 86  [© Maxine Heasman]

After arriving at the lodge we were then assigned our rooms; having had the luxury of my own room the night before, now I was to share with a woman in her 50's who ironically came from Woking, a town just a few miles away from me here in Cobham, Surrey.  Having lived alone for more years than I care to remember, I realised that getting used to sharing a room with a stranger was going to be a lot harder than I had envisaged... but anyway, that's another story.  I must not digress!! 

The lodge had no electricity so when darkness came the rooms were lit with candles.  My room mate's voice could be heard from the toilet:  "Maxine, do you remember noticing whether or not the toilet seat was broken?  There's a large black shape on it that I nearly sat on."  I then tentatively joined her in the toilet fearing that perhaps the black shape was some sort of large spider.  To my relief what was actually lurking in the toilet was this beautiful little frog....



Photo 87 [© Maxine Heasman]

 

SATURDAY 24th DECEMBER

It's Christmas Eve and in the absence of any email updates from Joe contact is made by telephone.  Joe describes the internet as being so slow that it is impossible to use and that he thinks it may be linked to the amount of users due to the Christmas holiday.

Since having emergency surgery for her hernia, Frida had pulled one of her internal stitches through too much running around and playing with the other dogs; so she has been back to the vet to have that fixed and now needs to have a couple of days resting without any undue physical exertion - in order to do this Joe has been keeping her on a leash.

Joe sounded very cheerful and was looking forward to spending Christmas Day with his neighbour Laurel and her family. 

 

SUNDAY 25th DECEMBER


Happy Christmas!

This seems to be the perfect time to reveal myself by sharing this particular photo, which was taken during a 14km trek into the jungle to an ancient ox-bow lake.  

  
Photo 88 - With Pablo the toy reindeer [© Maxine Heasman]

The first thing I see when I look at this photo is the sweat pouring from my face.  I've had plenty of empathy with Joe as he has struggled to get used to the extremely hot and humid conditions.  I remember constantly feeling that I wanted to have a cool refreshing shower, yet within seconds of doing just that I needed another one.  Very energy-draining!

PS.  Pablo the reindeer had been thrust into my hand by a friend on the day before my departure... along with instructions that I was to take photos of him doing different activities in Peru!

 

MONDAY 26th DECEMBER

Sometimes things happen that are so absurd they beggar belief!  How many times has a teacher heard the excuse "the dog ate my homework Miss"?  In this case one of the dogs has eaten/destroyed the USB modem that enables Joe to access the internet from within the shack.  Whilst Joe was next door enjoying Christmas Day the dog(s) knocked the modem from the shelf and onto the floor.  I asked if there was any possibility that the modem may end up being recycled inside some dog pooh... unfortunately the dog didn't swallow it whole as Joe discovered half of the modem completely destroyed on the floor.  

This unfortunate situation means Joe is now restricted to using the frequently closed internet cafe, and with no option to upload or send photographs!!  With Joe having just over four weeks left in Peru this is quite a blow to the project, and it means that daily updates on this website will not be quite as I had planned.  I am confident that Joe will get news through whenever he can, however on many occasions providing a daily update is going to mean I've got a great excuse to share some of my holiday photos and stories!!  

Joe enjoyed himself so much on Christmas Day that he even forgot to open the Christmas gifts that his family had given him!  Christmas lunch had consisted of BBQ chicken and the root of some kind of plant.  Joe explained to me that he no longer feels so out of place.  He has settled into the Peruvian way of life and has built up a close circle of friends and a routine for himself and the dogs.  He's even in the process of obtaining a suit to wear at a graduation ceremony he has been invited to!  Although he misses his mates back home, he no longer feels homesick or daunted in any way.

 

TUESDAY 27th DECEMBER

Cristina Corales announces on her Facebook page:  "A huge thank you to everyone who helped the PERUVIAN DOGS. When I return to Peru in January I'm going all out to buy some land and have a refuge for up to 30 dogs. The dogs will be street dogs who due to their health or temperament are unable to survive on the streets. I'll keep you updated via FB on our progress and introduce you to the new dogs."   You'll also be able to follow the progress here on this website.

Cristina prepared the following article especially for publication on this website, lest we forget some of the dogs who didn't make it:   "Sometimes dogs arrive at my door in such a poor state of health that they just don't survive. Bonito is such a case: his owner named him Bastard and then starved him to death. I renamed him Bonito (Beautiful).


Photo 89 - Bonito [© Cristina Corales]

There was no way back for poor Bonito, he had lost the will to fight.


Photo 90 - Aaron [© Cristina Corales]
 
Aaron was a beautiful Rotweiller who was owned by a policeman. When Aaron caught mange he was put in the street to fend for himself, and you can see the result. A woman took him in but she didn't know how to get him to eat, and she had no money for medicine. By the time she contacted me Aaron was almost dead, so was gently euthanazed. The kind woman insisted on having a little funeral for him, and he's buried in her garden.


Photo 91 - Chester [© Cristina Corales]

Chester arrived just this morning [22 November 2011], brought to me by a man who found him groaning in pain on a busy road. When Chester got to my house he was already unconscious, and he died 20 minutes later. The wheels of the vehicle had passed over his rib cage. As well as his injuries, Chester was crawling with lice, his fur was moving with them. The poor darling died on a soft bed and is now buried in my garden.

When dogs are brought to me or when I pick them up, the first thing I do is give them a name. For me it's very important that an animal is not just a 'thing', an 'it'. He or she has a name and becomes loved and wanted and cared about. And if he or she should die, tears are shed and a funeral takes place and for a short time in a sad, pitiful life, that dog knows love."

 

WEDNESDAY 28th DECEMBER

Joe managed to get internet access today, and here he updates us on his Christmas in Peru......

"Christmas Eve:  A pretty quiet day spent chilling with the dogs.  Leroy visited during the day and invited me out with him to see some of his family that evening.  The night soon approached and I met many of Leroy's cousins and his grandmother who had come to visit him over Christmas - she was a lovely lady who made me a hot chocolate and prepared Leroy and I a huge piece of turkey each which we ate in his shack. His shack was smaller than mine with two beds almost touching each other and just enough room to get in with a tiny table. We hit the town about 10 o'clock and started our drinking through until midnight... at this time it sounded like a war was going off; fireworks flying about everywhere, little kids throwing big bangers into the roads whilst the streets were full of smoke!  There don't appear to be any health and safety regulations here, one thing I do not miss in England.  After this we went back to drinking and rolled in at about 3.30 a.m.  Overall a good day.

Christmas Day:  I woke up with a banging headache!  I had to make my neighbours a table to seat 10 people - I did this quite easily with some concrete blocks and some wooden planks.  Sat eating and drinking for about 4 hours with a very interesting bloke who sat opposite me and told me many tales of the jungle.  He showed me some photos and explained their significance - without his explanation I would have just looked at these pictures without thinking twice; they all had their own unique story which I found very interesting.

Boxing Day:  A proper London cockney bloke whom I met a few days back had returned from his jungle tour, so I met with him and talked about his experience and had a couple of drinks.  We then just chilled out and wandered slowly around the market area. 

27th December: Today I had a suit coming for me to try on, from Laurel's friend who had invited me to some sort of graduation event.  The shoes were a little big but two pairs of socks did the job!  I took it easy for the day relaxing in the shade with the dogs and reading my book as I knew I was going to be on for a late one!!  I met Marie and her family at 8:30 p.m - none of them can speak any English so I knew I had let myself in for a funny evening.  When I entered the event I didn't expect it to be as posh and as well presented as it was... so many lovely dresses worn by beautiful women, and all the men suited and booted! Each table was a different family/partners and it was packed out, possibly 250 people plus.  A brilliant evening with me attempting to dance and making a fool of myself; they all danced very well and in routine so you can imagine how well I stood out being the only one not knowing the dance moves and being the only white person in the whole place!"

 

THURSDAY 29th DECEMBER

One of the dogs in Joe's care at the moment is little Milagro; in September 2010 he was found cowering on the median strip of a road during a heavy tropical storm.


Photo 92 - Milagro [© Cristina Corales]

Milagro has a broken jaw and is blind in one eye, and with limited sight in the other.  Cristina believes he must have had some big trauma to his face as the blind eye and broken jaw are on opposite sides. When he was found he had very little hair due to extensive mange and his claws had grown into his pads; he also had 25 ticks in one ear alone which Cristina says must have been driving him crazy.


Photo 93 - Milagro's claw growing into his paw [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 94 - Milagro had sores on his back [© Cristina Corales]



Photo 95 - Milagro getting a much needed cuddle [© Cristina Corales]

More recently, on 12th November this year, Cristina entered Milagro for the Ugliest Dog award at a local dog show.


Photo 96 - Milagro the 'Ugliest Dog' [© Cristina Corales]

Cristina wrote:  "And the winner of the Ugliest Dog competition is.... Drum Roll Please!  Milagro!!!!!  Actually he could have won every category because only 4 dogs turned up, then the judge went home for lunch so everyone except us left too. When the judge returned we were still sitting there so Milagro was awarded the prize. We got to take home: 2 kilos dog kibble, 2 collars, 2 dog plates and 4 plastic cups; and Milagro is soooo proud of himself he had to have a nap."


Photo 97 - Cristina and Milagro with their prize! [© Cristina Corales]

 

FRIDAY 30th DECEMBER


Photo 98 - [© Cristina Corales]

Cristina sent this photo with the caption:  "Frida and Sweetie had been very naughty this day (perhaps eating the modem) so they're trying to look innocent."

 

SATURDAY 31st DECEMBER


Photo 99 - [© Cristina Corales]

Cristina explains:  "The butterflies are around in flocks at this time of year; after a bit of rain they come out and sit on the wet mud, hundreds at a time."


Photo 100 - Licking minerals from the Tambopata riverbank
[© Maxine Heasman]

 

SUNDAY 1st JANUARY 2012


Photo 101 - Starving at El Triunfo [© Cristina Corales]

Referring to the above photo, Cristina states:  "The photo 'Starving at el Triunfo' is of a typical hungry and abandoned dog who is living on garbage to stay alive.  The typical diet for these dogs is old bones found in the rubbish, the contents of babies nappies, even tampons and sanitary pads.  Most street dogs have no front teeth due to lack of calcium and eating too many bones. Sweetie and Puppy Face both have their front teeth worn down to the gum."

 

MONDAY 2nd JANUARY


Photo 102 - Sterilization  [© Cristina Corales]



Photo 103 - Sterlization [© Cristina Corales]

Cristina writes:  "Photos of the sterilizing programme show the vet we paid for to come from Arequipa, 12 hours by bus from Puerto Maldonado, and a local vet operating.  As well as street dogs, we also sterilize cats.  The vet's bus ticket, his food and accommodation, and medicines for these programmes, which we hold every 6 months, are paid for by donations."
 

TUESDAY 3rd JANUARY

I spoke briefly with Joe while he was in one of the internet cafes in Puerto Maldonado - he'd been there over an hour trying to get access to his emails but without success.  Needless to say all is well with Joe and the dogs, other than Joe having a problem with one of his feet which is painful and swollen as a result of a cut or bite. 

Joe has visited a local project where monkeys previously held captive [usually tied with a length of string around their waist] are rehabilitated back into the wild.

With just two weeks left of the mission Joe is now feeling somewhat apprehensive about returning home to England!  It would seem that just as he is starting to get used to the heat, soon he'll have to get used to being cold again!!  It has rained non-stop in Puerto Maldonado since before the New Year.

Meanwhile over in Australia, Cristina is keen to get back to Peru:  "Actually I'm ready mentally to go back now.  I miss my dogs and am thinking about all the others waiting for help."


 

WEDNESDAY 4th JANUARY

Joe successfully gets an update through.  Describing the events of 30th December, he writes:  "My neighbour Laurel and I were looking at the fence by my front gate, from my side and hers, which was slowly breaking more and more due to the rotten beams.  I suggested as it was her side of the fence that we mend the rotten beams as soon as possible and that I would take the fencing down and replace it all.  So Laurel set off at 7.30 a.m. to get the new wood whilst I started taking down the fence, with the dogs barricaded off by the handy use of concrete blocks so they still had the back side of the garden to trot about in. Nearly 5 or so hours later the fence was back up and solid - no more worries of dogs entering neighbours' houses and causing havoc!

I was invited to a BBQ with my neighbour this day also for the celebration of a roof going up.  In Peru this is the first part that is constructed on a building, and from what I have seen so far wood is always used for the whole frame, then aluminium or tin on the roof itself.  I thought this was rather strange, a party for a roof, so I asked about it.  Peruvians love to hold a fiesta as much as they can... I've grown to learn that this is their style and I love it!

We all met on a road by a lovely sculpture of an eagle, and were waiting for Marie to turn up to lead us were to go.  [Marie is the woman who performed the emergency hernia surgery on Frida.]  On the way I bumped into my juggling friend, dressed in his usual bright stripy vest top full of what I call 'hippy' colours, and Marie invited him along too.  Laurel and her son Alistair had to get back home in time for Alistair's gymnastics class so Laurel suggested that I continue on without them, so that is what I did.  There were three motorbikes all waiting with people whom I didn't know, and soon I was beckoned to jump on the back of one followed by another, so on each bike there were three people which I found rather amusing. After riding down some very small tracks and then on foot,  we entered this huge space where I could see the newly built roof and that was literally what was there.  The surroudings were beautiful... no neighbours, no shacks in view, just pure jungle like plants and trees and a field with some cows!

People kept leaving to buy stuff and different people arrived.  I was confused by all the different faces I kept seeing.  Once again nobody spoke English but I was used to this by now and just enjoyed the fact that I was chilling with a beer in hand in the Amazon Basin.  The BBQ fire started off from a few dried out leaves and twigs, and once it was hot they added coal straight on top of it on the floor and then found some pieces of wood that they could rest the grill on over the hot coals. To start off (and when I say start off it was a very, very long BBQ!) we chucked on some bananas which are so tasty once peeled off and these were soon gobbled up.  There were only five of us there at the time so I guessed the others were still gathering bits for the evening.  Marie got fed up as she had the kids with her so she left and once again I was invited to stay, so I certainly did.  A big group of people turned up now making the total number thirteen.  There was plenty of beer, laughter filled the air and the atmosphere was brilliant.  Meat started piling onto the BBQ and at one point a ridiculously over-sized piece of meat was slapped on there and it took an hour or more to cook.  Time just flew by and as the sun set there were at least twenty plus dragonflies weaving in and out of the wooden posts holding the roof up.  What a beautiful scene out in the jungle under a big roof feasting, drinking and laughing while watching the scenery around slowly disappear as the sun snuck away until the next day."

 

THURSDAY 5th JANUARY

In his update above Joe describes a beautiful scene at the BBQ in the jungle.  Using some of Cristina's photos, let's now take a look at the uglier side of Puerto Maldonado.


Photo 104 - Early sun and rubbish on the track leading to my house  [© Cristina Corales]



Photo 105 - [© Cristina Corales]
"A kids' play area has been set up on a vacant lot on the Plaza. Yes folks: Roll up Roll up!  But first you'll have to carry the kids over the rubble and rubbish!"


Photo 106 - Two boys [© Cristina Corales]
"Kids here play with incredible stuff... I saw some little girls having a tea party with drain water and mud! They often play chasing through storm drains too."

 
 

FRIDAY 6th JANUARY



Photo 107 - [© Maxine Heasman]

The photo above shows the two types of taxi in Puerto Maldonado, the motocar and the motorcycle.  Note that only the motorcyclist is legally required to wear a crash helmet... pillion passengers are free to feel the wind in their hair!

 

SATURDAY 7th JANUARY

Thanks to Cinthya for sharing these photos today...


Photo 108 - [© Cinthya Tatiana Trujillo Rivera]
Leroy and Joe at La Plaza de Armas


Photo 109 - [© Cinthya Tatiana Trujillo Rivera]
Reading the menu


Photo 110 - [© Cinthya Tatiana Trujillo Rivera]
 

SUNDAY 8th JANUARY

More news arrives from Joe.  Reflecting on New Year's Eve he writes:  "I didnt have any plans for this day but had already decided that I would go out and see the New Year in with a beer in hand whether I was with company or not; but Leroy once again gave me a call and invited me to come round at about 2pm. I turned up at his house were he was cleaning all the paint off the floor in his newly decorated home.  Leroy showed me a ticket he had for a party and asked me if i wanted to go.  I agreed and went back home.  Later that day we went and bought the ticket from an ice cream shop of all places.  [Photos 109 and 110 above were taken at the ice cream shop]  The day flew by and the drinking started about 9pm at his house.  Lots of Leroy's family were there and I was made to feel just as welcome as one of them.  Most of the early night all us blokes sat out the front on the bikes drinking beer, watching the start of the fireworks and just waiting for the arrival of 2012.  Midnight was coming round fast and I answered a phone call from England at about 4:30am their time, a drunk friend of course wishing me a Happy New Year... thanks Dani. 

When midnight came the streets went crazy; they make these Guy Fawkes-like figures out of their old clothes and stuff them with bangers and fireworks then set them on fire - it sounded like a full blown war. The women from inside ran out with confetti and some sort of white spray which stayed in your hair very well! Inside we went... we were each handed a cup full of grapes, followed by a meal of chicken and potatoes and it went down very well. The room we were in had been painted yellow and all the women wore yellow clothing from head to toe.  I didn't know I was supposed to wear yellow boxers/pants on New Year's but that's what they do round here!  More and more beer was drunk then somehow I ended up outside the club and in we went.  There were yellow and gold ribbons hanging from the ceiling that fell across your head and shoulders as you entered.  We got to a desk where you had a wide choice of giant oversized ties, many funny hats and the flowers you can see around my neck in the photo.  Just lots of dancing and drinking followed... the rest of the night cannot be described as my memory is not all that clear, but they know how to party and have a laugh!"


Photo 111 - Clubbing on New Year's Eve [© Cinthya Tatiana Trujillo Rivera]

Learn more about the significance of wearing yellow and burning dolls/figures by clicking this link HERE. 

Joe continues:  "1st Jan - a day of bearing self inflicted 'illness'!  From then and till now I have been to the Amazon Shelter as mentioned (monkey sanctuary] and then had the fun of the bad foot which was blood poisoning.  Since this I have just had a bit of a bad time with my stomach and for the last two nights lots of waking up being sick and feeling stupidly tired and feeling weak.  Had lots of rain since New Year's and it has made the garden look like a massive paddling pool.  More mud wheyyyy!!"

 

MONDAY 9th JANUARY

Thanks to the generosity of so many people, a grand total of £667 was transferred to Cristina yesterday.

Expressing her sincere gratitude for all the wonderful support and donations, Cristina has explained that this substantial amount of money is going to make a significant difference as she will now have the funds to buy a piece of land and build a refuge for the dogs.  Her head is full of ideas for a hospital area, quarantine, lots of shade areas and a simple house for a full-time carer; and she is so excited to be travelling back to Peru on 13th January.

Please keep visiting this website for all the news about Cristina's progress.


Photo 112 - A rare shot of all the dogs [© Cristina Corales]

The photo above shows Pinkie, Milagro, Sweetie, Puppy Face, Frida and Pia.  Also in the shot [top right] is dear sweet Robbie who sadly had to be put to sleep just a few days before Joe's arrival, and Maxine [bottom right] who recently found a lovely new forever home.


Photo 113 - The inspirational Cristina Corales

 

TUESDAY 10th JANUARY

Cristina is keen to get back to Peru to resume her regular patrols on the streets of Puerto Maldonado.  Rescues and interventions routinely involve dogs suffering malnutrition coupled with mange, ticks and fleas.


Photo 114 -  Toby [© Cristina Corales]

The above photo shows Toby with an extremely severe case of demodectic mange - elderly dogs or those with weakend immune systems are at a higher risk.


Photo 115  - Piston [© Cristina Corales]

Piston is pictured here suffering from sarcoptic mange, which is also known as 'canine scabies' and which is a highly contagious infestation of a burrowing mite - this mite can also infest cats, sheep, pigs and other animals.



Photo 116 - Maxine [© Cristina Corales]

When Cristina first discovered Maxine she had a nest of fleas on her back - they had burrowed down into her skin.

 

WEDNESDAY 11th JANUARY

It isn't just the dogs in Peru that need help...


Photo 117 - Sick kitty [© Cristina Corales]

Sadly the kitten pictured above had cat flu and was very under nourished and died.  As you can see from the way she was lying on Cristina's legs, she was very sick.


Photo 118 - Kittens [© Cristina Corales]

Let's hope the future is brighter for this little lot, born in September 2011.

 

THURSDAY 12th JANUARY

If you've read Cristina's Story you'll know that when she first arrived in Puerto Maldonado the locals laughed at her attempts to help the dogs.  How things have changed!  Now that word has spread amongst the community some of the more responsible dog owners are turning to Cristina for help.


Photo 119 [© Cristina Corales]

The lady above is bringing her dog to be treated for mange.
 

FRIDAY 13th JANUARY

Today Cristina set off from Australia for the long haul back to Peru - she is due to touch down in Puerto Maldonado tomorrow afternoon.  Whilst he awaits her return, Joe sends the following update: 

13th January:  "There hasn't been too much going on for me, I like being ill at the moment it seems to be endless!  I'm looking forward to the day I wake with a bit more energy rather than feeling like just going back to sleep.  I have a nice sore throat and chesty cough along with everything!  Coming home has come round so quickly and the way I felt at the start compared to the way I feel now is almost two opposites - I love the people, the way everyone has this relaxed mood... no one is rushing about, smiles and laughter follow you most places.  I'm already thinking about where I am going next, not if I am.  I'm sure there are lots of animals, not just dogs, that need help across the world and I will be going to see them indeed!

I will miss all of Cristina's dogs a lot as they have become my close friends, but I do now have a favourite which is Frida - she has just become less desperate to bolt straight out of the gate and now comes and nudges me for lots of play and cuddles. I hope to see them all again one day.

The hostel is now what I call the American hostel seeing as a group of 16 arrived a few days back; all nice people with a good mixture of characters. Yesterday I spent a good few hours giving the shack one last heavy clean but in twenty minutes flat the dogs soon changed the nice clean floor and started bringing in the usual wet leaves or sticks to chew up and spread everywhere.  Every day seems to be bringing more and more rain but I quite enjoy going for a walk at this time as everywhere is empty so it seems all mysterious. A lot of my juggling friends have now moved on and left to another place which is a shame as they are some of the coolest people I have met.  I like to think one day I could take an adventure like theirs where every day they make their money by performing or making lovely items and ending up where the wind takes them.  What a life!" 
 

SATURDAY 14th JANUARY



Photo 120 - Puerto Tambopata  [© Cristina Corales]

Puerto Tambopata is the port just 10 minutes walk from the shack. The man pictured here is unloading bags of charcoal.  Papayas and bananas by the thousands also arrive at this port by canoe from up-river.

 

SUNDAY 15th JANUARY


Photo 121 - [© Maxine Heasman]

If you scroll back up to Photo 75 you'll see that Joe got a really good shot of some hoatzin birds when he visited Lake Sandoval.  The photo above shows what I call the 'hoatzin painting' - this huge and beautiful artwork was on display at the Tambopata Eco Lodge.

 

MONDAY 16th JANUARY

Some of Cristina's photographs show a more quirky side to Puerto Maldonado.


Photo 122 - "Somebody was thirsty"  [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 123 - [© Cristina Corales]
"This product to kill cockroaches is for sale at the vet's shop."


Photo 124 - Advertising X-Rays [© Cristina Corales]

 

TUESDAY 17th JANUARY

Joe has told his mum that the first meal he'd like when he gets back is bubble and squeak!  I wonder if he's been eating any of these at those Peruvian BBQs he's been attending....


Photo 125 - Grilled grubs at the fair [© Cristina Corales]


Photo 126 - [© Cristina Corales]

I wonder if Joe's mum, or any of us for that matter, could cope with a kitchen like this!  Cristina explains that those are broad beans in the saucepan - in Puerto Maldonado they are roasted and eaten like peanuts.

 

FRIDAY 20th JANUARY

Late afternoon Joe touched down safely at London Heathrow Airport.  Mission accomplished!


 
Photo 127 - Joe at Heathrow arrivals  [© Maxine Heasman]

 

Joe Peacock would like to thank all the people who so kindly donated to help him raise the money to get to Peru to help Cristina.  An amazing £1,987.57 was raised - meaning that in addition to covering the full £1,200 cost of his return flights to Peru, Joe was able to give £787.57 directly to Cristina and the dogs.


Luis B F, Birkenhead, Merseyside - £10
Janette C, Spain - £100
Chris V - €10 [£7.57]
Holli L, Canary Wharf, London - £30
Catherine D - £5
Paul and Chris S, Hatherleigh, Devon - £10
Jillie M, Okehampton, Devon - £5
James M, Okehampton, Devon - £20
Tracy and Alan D, Southborough, Kent - £20
Customers of Hildenbrough Animal Supplies, Kent - £13
A & S Barbers, Tonbridge, Kent - £8
Malcolm S, Tonbridge, Kent - £2
Mary, Kent - £10
Lt Colonel P & Mrs P, Okehampton, Devon - £5
Enrique M, Woking, Surrey - £20
More friends of Riverside Kennels, Hatherleigh, Devon - £10
Lesley F, NSW, Australia - £25
Annette E, Oxted, Surrey - £20
Charlotte A, Edenbridge, Kent - £10
Sue & Anthony A, Okehampton, Devon - £20
Thomas Z, Italy - £20
Rosemary C, Shamley Green, Surrey - £10
Chris G, Blindley Heath, Surrey - £5
Maria C & Trevor B, Edenbridge, Kent - £25
Serena S, London - £100
Lynn & Dave, Okehampton, Devon - £10
Helen P, Okehampton, Devon - £10
Tim C, Crediton, Devon - £10
Avril & John M, Chagford, Devon - £50
Geoff D, Guildford Surrey - £15
Lynn B, Oxted, Surrey - £20
Maurice & Marjory R, Hildenborough, Kent - £20
Liz H, Tim, Jon & Howard, Hildenborough, Kent - £15
Mr & Mrs I, Cardiff, Wales - £20
Jeremy & Lyn, Okehampton, Devon - £30
Sally A, Crawley, West Sussex - £20
Jane M, Bletchingley, Surrey - £50
John C, Haslemere, Surrey - £25
Barry & Wendy E, Speyton, Devon - £10
Daniel O, Hatherleigh, Devon - £10
Friends of Riverside Kennels, Hatherleigh, Devon - £20
Valerie H, Torrington, Devon - £10
Abbie W, North Lew, Devon - £10
Pets Paradise, Tonbridge, Kent - £20
Charles K, Oxted, Surrey - £20
Jenny & Alan G, Winkleigh, Devon - £20
Mike & Michaela D, Plymouth, Devon - £30
Jo C, Lingfield, Surrey - £15
Yvette C, Hildenborough, Kent - £10
Bob & Nina A - £50
Judith G, Effingham, Surrey - £20
Contact Management Team, Mount Browne, Guildford - £50
Graham R, Orpington, Kent - £20
Paul S, Biggin Hill, Kent - £8
Christine C, Edenbridge, Kent - £10
Tim A, Hildenborough, Kent - £5
John K, Tonbridge, Kent - £2
Amanda P, Wadhurst, East Sussex - £30
Mandy & Pete C, Hildenborough, Kent - £20
Adam W, Tonbridge, Kent - £10
Mr & Mrs D, Somerset - £200
Hugh B, Wellington, Somerset - £5
Kate R, Edenbridge, Kent - £30
Dave & Jean S, Edenbridge, Kent - £25
Chris C, Farnborough, Hampshire - £10
Gill G, Hildenborough, Kent - £30
Nicky T, Guildford, Surrey - £10
Christine K, Eastbourne, East Sussex - £50
Eric B, Tonbridge, Kent - £10
Linda B, Hatherleigh, Devon - £10
Sue P, Hatherleigh, Devon - £10
Catherine R, Black Torrington, Devon - £5
Sandy C, Okehampton, Devon - £20
Sam B & Gavin T, Reading, Berkshire - £30
Barry I, Doulton, Devon - £10
Pat N, Nova Scotia, Canada - £20
Sharon D, Hatherleigh, Devon - £10
Lesley K, Hatherleigh, Devon - £33
Debbie R, Hatherleigh Devon - £10
Paul G, Hatherleigh, Devon - £10
Marion W, Lingfield, Surrey - £50
Pam T, Topsham, Devon - £50
Hildenborough Animal Supplies, Kent - £10
Michael C, Edenbridge, Kent - £20
Elizabeth S, Hildenborough, Kent - £20
Tanya T, Canada - £40
Discount Website Design, Manchester - £1
Sandie C, Burscough, West Lancashire - £50

 

Joe flew to Peru’s capital Lima, where he caught a connecting flight to the jungle town of Puerto Maldonado in the Madre de Dios region close to the border with Brazil and Bolivia… swapping the crisp, chill winter air of Kent for the hot and steamy Amazon basin where annual rainfall exceeds 3.3 ft.

The wet season is from October to April. The main part of the town is located on a slightly elevated area that does not normally flood in the wet season. Road travel often becomes impossible during this time.

On the banks of the Tambopata River, the whole of the lower part of town (pictured here on the left) can become submerged in water or mud.  The main industries in the area are Brazil nuts, logging, gold dredging, boat building and eco-tourism.  The usual mode of transport in the town is the tuktuk or motorcycle.

 

During his first week in Peru, Joe was able to spend time with Cristina in order to receive some guidance and become familiar with the area and the dogs. 

Cristina Corales